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Most pawpaw cultivars are hardy to zone 5 to 8 but require a growing season of at least 160 frost-free days. Pawpaw seedlings are very sensitive to full sun and so should be provided partial shade for the first year or two. After this, full sun is preferred. Deep, well drained, fertile, moist, slightly acidic (pH 5 to 7) soils are best. They may be sensitive to dry winds, low humidity and cool summers. The foliage may be damaged by strong wind. Transplanting seedlings or suckers from the wild is difficult because the plants have long taproots with few root hairs or lateral roots. Move the tree with roots and soil intact, and transplant in the spring after bud break. Containerized plants are easier to handle.
The Romans no doubt took their pear-trees northwards into Gaul andBritain. The climate of France is so well adapted to the growth ofpears, that at one time it was thought all good pears must come fromFrance. I well remember many years ago seeing a garden in this countryfull of pear-trees, every one of which had come from France. Happilythere is no need now to go out of England for the very best varieties. Alist published in 1628 by a fruit-grower of Orleans named Le Lectier(there is a new variety called by his name, and probably after him)enumerates 260 varieties. The well known Jargonelle is mentioned in thatlist. Our Parkinson in 1629 refers to 64 varieties only. Seventy yearslater we read of 138, and in 1829 of 630 varieties. John Scott, ratherfamous as a fruit-grower forty years ago, says in his \"Orchardist\" thathe has above 1000 sorts worked upon the Quince Stock. He had studiedpomology at the \"Jardin Fruitier,\" the fruit garden attached to theJardin des Plantes at Paris, and, using his opportunities, learnt allthe secrets of Pear culture, and brought them from France to Merriott,near Crewkerne, in Somerset. The last edition of Dr Hogg's \"FruitManual\" (invaluable to the Pomologist), published in 1884, contains thenames of 647 varieties. Not a few of these were marked as worthless bythe Committee of the National Pear Conference, held at Chiswick inOctober 1885. The Royal Horticultural Society in their \"Fruits forCottagers and Small Farmers\" (1892), selected eight varieties only foreating, and two more for late keepers; four were recommended for cooking[Pg 3]or stewing. Fresh sorts are constantly being brought into notice, theresult of cross-fertilisation, and we may, I think, congratulateourselves that British pears in a favourable season are as good as thoseproduced in any part of the world. Let any one who doubts this statementattend a Crystal Palace or any other first-rate Fruit Show; his doubtswill soon be dispelled.
To plant pears in a north aspect even on a wall is a mistake. Morellocherries are a sure crop, pears a very doubtful one. The wood is notwell ripened, and bloom-buds are not often formed. The amount ofrainfall is also a matter for consideration. If the soil is light, moremoisture will be needed than in heavier land. [Pg 4]Heavy clays are not goodfor pears, yet much may be done to improve such soils, and some outlaymay be desirable in gardens and small plantations. Good drainage will benecessary. The ground before planting must be well lifted and exposed tothe air; some portions should be burnt and mixed with the rest; decayedvegetable matter should be added in abundance. After planting, when thetrees are rooted and growing, the soil should be often lifted with alight fork, or hoed, and the air admitted to the roots. A clayey loam isthe best of all soils for the Pear, yet even that may be much improvedby exposure before planting, and the use of the fork or hoe afterwards.In sandy or chalky soils, pears will have a poor chance even on the free(or pear) stock, unless the ground has been previously prepared bytrenching, and then digging in a good quantity of decayed stable orfarmyard manure. Marl or clay from other parts, or turf (chopped up)from a field, may be added with advantage. Generous treatmentsubsequently in the way of liquid manure will alone make trees in suchground a success. Should, however, the soil be shallow and the subsoilgravel or chalk, trees must be lifted every few years, and the expensein a large garden might be considerable.
The best time for planting is towards the close of October and inNovember. Select your trees yourself, and go only to first ratenurserymen for pears if you want varieties on the Quince stock. Eachnursery has its specialty. Budding, grafting and double-grafting onspecial stocks do not always have the attention and skill required. Ifyou cannot go, send your orders early, so as to secure an early choiceand good trees. Planting may continue to the end of February, but youmust not expect good trees for late orders. The roots, too, make someprogress even in winter, so that early planting is preferable in everyway.
Standards should be attached to a round, strong, stout stake 2inches thick or more, as soon as planted. The best plan is to have thestake in position ready for the tree. For full sized standards, thestakes should be 7 to 8 feet long, and driven 18 inches or more into theground; they should be in the centre of each hole. Choose durable wood,as far as possible. A straw or hay band, or a piece of bagging, shouldnow be run round the stem, and the stake attached to it by thick stringor cord well tarred. The twigs of the willow (soft and strong,especially the golden willow) may also be used. Protection againstrabbits must be provided at once. A wire fence round the orchard orgarden is best; where there is no fence, put a yard of wire netting[Pg 8](1 mesh) round each tree. This will last for years. The wire shouldbe 3 feet high at the least. Examine your fence every year in Septemberand repair. You cannot be too particular. Serious damage may be done ina night.
In the larger boxes, strong paper should be put round inside to preventbruising. All fruit, however sent, should be even in size, of goodquality, not diseased or bruised. Pears are more attractive when wellpacked than apples. Placed with their heads against the two oppositesides in two rows with the stems toward each in a box of suitable size,they may be made to fit closely so as to travel safely. The better andlater sorts should be bedded in wood-wool and wrapped in tissue paper,white or coloured, with a sheet of paper between each layer, and thewhole firmly packed. Loose fruit are sure to suffer. The contents ofeach box must be made so firm as not to be moved in the slightestdegree. The G.E. and other railway companies provide cheap boxes of asuitable size and allow similar boxes also to be used if nailed. Theymust not be corded. Wire hinges and a fastening in front have beensuggested. Nos. 3, 4 and 5 (G.E.R.), 2s. 6d., 3s., and 4s. per dozen arethe best sizes. They will hold 18 to 24 fruits. On G.E.R. 20 lbs. can besent for 4d. to London; 1d. extra is charged for every additional 5lbs.; delivery is included. Such boxes could be readily stamped with thegrower's name. The companies assist growers by publishing the names ofthose who have produce to sell.
[Pg 48]Liquid manure (not strong nor cold) must also be given two or threetimes a week. The fruit must be thinned, and the trees neverover-cropped. Large trees in 16 or 18-inch pots need the annual renewalof the soil rather than repotting. The flowers should be fertilised bythe admission of bees, by shaking the trees in fine weather aboutmid-day, or by passing a light brush gently over the blooms from flowerto flower. Change of diet as well as air, and frequent syringing withclear water (say Messrs Bunyard) are very necessary (\"Modern FruitCulture,\" p. 23). But a dry atmosphere is best when pear and plum treesare in flower. Syringing in the open air is good for all trees in dryweather after the fruit has set. The following is a good wash to beapplied when the trees are brought into the house in January orFebruary. Put a peck of fresh soot into a coarse sack, and hang it in atub containing 30 or 40 gallons of water; leave it there for eight orten days; then remove it and throw in half a peck of fresh lime. Mixwell, then take off the surface scum. A decoction of quassia made byboiling 2 or 3 ozs. of chips to a gallon of water for twenty-five orthirty minutes (or steeped in soft water for twenty-four hours) added tothe above is a useful insecticide. Syringe with this before the budsappear, but not again until the fruit is set, then once a week, oroftener, as occasion may require.
Althorp Crassanne is often a first-rate pear. Mr Knight (very eminent acentury ago) called it the best of all. It lasts from October toDecember. The tree is hardy, and a good bearer, but the fruit is hardlylarge enough for exhibition.
The plum is not so particular as the pear about soil, yet it has itspreferences. It is not so deep-rooting as the apple and pear are; thecharacter therefore of the lower soil is not so important. Butstone-fruits require lime. In planting for profit, no site should beselected for a large plantation if the soil is deficient in lime. It istrue that lime can be added, but this plan may suit a private garden,not a large plantation for profit. The plum being hardier than the pearwill flourish in most soils, even in a heavy loam, but not in lightsandy or gravelly soil. In the latter case, something may be done byheavy manuring and frequent removal. The trees in [Pg 60]the R.H.S.'s gardenat Chiswick are a triumph of skilful culture, as good crops are raisedon many trees in a hot and gravelly soil. Some damsons, however, do notthrive there. But such culture is costly. In soils of an intermediatecharacter, much may be done by adding other materials as suggested forpears. If there is any doubt about the amount of lime in the soil, ananalysis should be obtained, and special notice taken of the trees inthe neighbourhood. The plum (like the pear) will not thrive in a low,wet, undrained locality, nor in one that is very dry or exposed.Drainage is essential to success. If, in a rainy season, water in a claysoil is allowed to remain round the roots, canker or gumming is prettysure to follow. Excessive moisture is as bad as extreme dryness. Theslope of the ground, therefore, is a matter of importance. In Essexthere is often land quite level with a heavy clay soil difficult todrain; such soil would not suit plums, though it might suit quinces. Theaspect as well as the slope must also be considered. For the betterclass of plums, i.e. dessert varieties, where sweetness is expected, aposition open to the southern sun is best, but they will also thrive ifthe aspect is S.-E. or even S.-W. Culinary and hardy varieties might beplanted in the colder aspects to the N., N.-E. or N.-W. Proper sheltermust by no means be forgotten. Bitter north winds may injure the bloomalmost as much as frost or rain; strong winds from the E. or S.-W. maydo great damage to heavy crops. Mr Lewis Castle in \"Plums for Profit\"(edited by myself, S.P.C.K.) suggests that \"Canadian and Italian poplarsmake a good break if tall growers are required, but cherry plums, themyrobalan, will grow into a strong hedge in two or three years' time ifthe height be sufficient.\" Damson hedges serve a double purpose andafford good protection. He also suggests that some of the ornamentalcrabs are similarly useful for protection. Of [Pg 61]these the Transcendantand Hyslop or Dartmouth produce good crops of lovely fruit which areexcellent for cooking purposes and would probably sell well. 59ce067264